PROPER ELK "SIGHT-IN" METHODS for the .30-378
First
of all, the object here is to not assume that everyone knows how to sight in their rifle.
There are many new hunters and shooters every day. When we go to the rifle
range, we all want to be able to at least hit the paper target. Whenever you buy a rifle
or a new scope, at least have it bore sighted. This is the first step to properly getting
the bullet to hit the paper. If you do choose not to have it bore sighted, you can choose
to view a particular target through your barrel, providing that it is a bolt action. First
make certain that it is unloaded. You will need to remove the bolt and view a target by
looking through the barrel. You can then make adjustments on your scope so the cross hairs
are also on that same spot. But believe me, having it bore sighted is the best place to
start, it will save you time and shells. The best thing that you can do is to
purchase a
high quality laser bore alignment
device. This is by far the most accurate method of getting you to the target.
Start out with a 25 yard target, and take three shots to get your grouping. You will want to start sighting it in to the center of this group. Start out with a 25 yard target, and take three shots to get your grouping. You will want to start sighting it in to the center of this group. Now you can play around with the elevation and wind age to get it hit where you are looking through the scope, and this does work. But first you need to know the adjustments, which may and do vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. A method that I prefer is simpler and faster to use. This method is to use a good sturdy rest , one that can be used hands free, or a friend, and after your 3 shot group, look through the scope, place cross hairs on the bulls eye again, and now move cross hairs to the center of the 3 shot group. I have used this method with a one shot sight-in, and moved the cross hairs to meet the bullet hole.
Your cross hairs are now where your bullet is
hitting. But the 3 shot grouping is a better method. Now that you have it
sighted in at 25 yards, move to a 100 yard target and repeat this procedure.
Your goal should be for 1.5" at 100 yards free hand!!! Yes folks,
"freehand". At the bench you should be able to shoot under 1".
Now you will have to decide at what distance you want it sighted in at. Most hunters use the 1 1/2" high at 100 yards, which will put you roughly at the zero at 200 yards. But with the 200 yard zero you will still have to estimate distances in unfamiliar terrain. A much better way is to sight your rifle in to give you the longest point-blank or dead-on hold that is possible without shooting too high at the mid-range point. With most magnum rifles and bullets, this means 3" high at 100 yards. I am assuming you are shooting a .300 Weatherby or larger weapon such as the .30-378 Weatherby or the 7.82 Warbird.
Unlike a target shooter who knows exactly how far
his target is, you do not have to be too concerned about the distance, or hitting
the 10 point on a target. Your concern is to hit the vitals of the game you are
hunting. You do not have to be concerned if it is high at short distances, or low at
long distance, so long as you can connect with the vital area. Unlike the target
shooter you will not be able to calculate the exact distance to hit exactly at your point
of aim because while you are hunting you will not be able to determine the exact
distance anyway.
Lets use the .30-378 Weatherby as an example, shooting a 180 grain Nosler/Winchester Fail-Safe Bullet at 3,450 fps.
Sighted in at 3" high at 100 yards, the bullet will hit about 3.1" high at 200 yards, almost dead on at 300-350 yards, will drop to about 2.5" low at 375 yards, and less than 8" inches low at 400 yards.
This is a range that we all know as "pretty darned far". This weapon has the capability to group 4.5" at 600 yards in the right hand with lots and lots of practice.
Hold on the top of the back and hit near dead
center. At 175 - 200 yards, the bullet will hit below the spine with a center hold.
If that same bullet was sighted in at 100 yards, with a center hold, the bullet
would land about 2.5" low at 375 yards, and more than 7" low at 400 yards,
and more than 19.0" low at 500 yards. To practice at 300-500 yards
you should invest in a MilDot
Calculator until you are confident in your range estimation.
With the 3" high at the 100 yard sight in, you can hold dead center on the game out to 350-400 yards with no figuring at all. With the 100 yard zero you would be undershooting the vital area at less than 250 yards. This 3" high at 100 yards will bring out the cartridge's full potential. The only time you would have a concern is if you were in heavy cover, and then your target would be at 100 yards or less, and all you had was a head or a neck shot. Now you would have to aim low or you would shoot over the animal. Just go back to my home page to get an idea of a challenge with a head shot given the fact that my rifle was zero calibrated at 300 yards!
Courtesy of the Weatherby Home Page
| BULLET | B/C | VELOCITY (Feet per Second) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wt. Grains | Bullet Type | Muzzle | 100 Yds | 200 Yds | 300 Yds | 400 Yds | 500 Yds | |
| 165 | Bst | .475 | 3500 | 3275 | 3062 | 2859 | 2665 | 2480 |
| 180 | Barnes-X | .511 | 3450 | 3243 | 3046 | 2858 | 2678 | 2504 |
| 200 | Partition | .481 | 3160 | 2955 | 2759 | 2572 | 2392 | 2220 |
| BULLET | B/C | ENERGY (Foot-Pounds) | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wt. Grains | Bullet Type | Muzzle | 100 Yds | 200 Yds | 300 Yds | 400 Yds | 500 Yds | |
| 165 | Bst | .475 | 4488 | 3930 | 3435 | 2995 | 2603 | 2253 |
| 180 | Barnes-X | .511 | 4757 | 4204 | 3709 | 3264 | 2865 | 2506 |
| 200 | Partition | .481 | 4434 | 3877 | 3381 | 2938 | 2541 | 2188 |
| BULLET | B/C | PATH OF BULLET (Above or below line-of-sight of riflescopes mounted 1.5" above bore) |
|||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Wt. Grains | Bullet Type | 100 Yds | 200 Yds | 300 Yds | 400 Yds | 500 Yds | |
| 165 | Bst | .475 | 2.4 | 3.0 | 0.0 | -7.4 | -19.5 |
| 180 | Barnes-X | .511 | 2.4 | 3.1 | 0.0 | -7.4 | -19.6 |
| 200 | Partition | .481 | 3.2 | 3.9 | 0.0 | -9.1 | -24.3 |
| LEGEND: Pt-Ex =
Pointed Expanding Rn-Ex = Round Nose-Expanding FMJ =
Full Metal Jacket Swift A = Divided Lead Cavity or "H" Type
Barnes-X = Barnes "X" Flat Base Bst =
Nosler Ballistic Tip® NOTE: These tables were calculated by computer using a standard modern scientific technique to predict trajectories and recoil energies from the best available data for each cartridge. The fiqures shown are expected to be reasonably accurate of ammunition behavior under standard conditions. However, the shooter is cautioned that performance will vary because of variations in rifles, ammunition, atmospheric conditions and altitude. - B.C.: Ballistic Coefficients used for these tables were supplied by the bullet's manufacturers. Listed velocities were determined using 26-inch barrels. Velocities from shorter barrels will be reduced by 30 to 65 feet per second per inch of barrel removed. - Trajectories were computed with the line-of-sight 1.5 inches above the bore centerline. *Partition is a registered trademark of Nosler, Inc. - **Monolithic Solid is a registered trademark of A-Square, Inc. - Barnes X-Bullet(tm) is a registered trademark of Barnes Bullets. |
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